Departed LAX on a Cathay Pacific 747 at 12:20 am for the all night (and day) 15.5 hour flight to Hong Kong, the first leg to Kuala Lumpur. My first ride on Cathay Pacific – as I noted on Asiana a few years back, the folks on this end of the world don’t have “flight attendants.” but rather have stewardesses who really work at giving service – instead of slam bam let’s get this meal over – if there is a meal!
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Saturday Jan. 5, 08
A day lost by crossing the date line, but a pleasant flight and OK sleep.
Upon leaving Hong Kong the Cathay pilot had to jump-start one engine on his Airbus A330, that seems a little unusual. During both landing and take off it was too hazy or smoggy to get any good pictures. Then about 10 miles out we got a fire alarm in the passenger cabin and pilot chose to return. After a couple hours delay we got another plane, this time a 777. This plane has the most innovative interior design I have seen in a long while – in the 1st and business class sections. All the seats are laid out diagonally so nobody has the climb over anyone else, each with a big screen TV, ac power for charging stuff, and the seat fully reclines into a horizontal bed. Seems like a great layout at first, but I am reserving judgment. It’s a great place for sleeping, but you are trapped in by the partitions, tray table and video screen most of the time … and the window is at the back of one’s head.
On approach to the Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur (KL) airport we saw literally miles of plantations with trees in neat rows. Later learned that these are nearly all palm oil and maybe some rubber? Taxi to the Hilton Sentral in KL and dinner at the Eden Village restaurant. This got good marks in Frommer’s but not form us. Denny and I found it greasy fried seafood and poor service, and as learned later the most expensive meal of the trip.
Sunday Jan. 6, 08
Today we saw much of KL, walking a lot, traveling by train and sometimes taxi when time required. It was hard but productive day. Went up both the KL tower (Menara Kuala Lumpur), fourth tallest tower in the world this week but these rankings are continually changing, and the Petronas sky bridge. The twin Petronas towers were the
tallest buildinga in the world until recently overtaken by a building in Taipei. We also visited the National 
Mosque Mosque, (Masjid Negara) the old 
train station train station, beautiful Mourish architecture, the Islamic Arts Museum (exterior only) and the world’s largest free-flight 
aviary aviary in the Taman Tasik Pardana (gardens). KL and Malaysia at this point does not seem like a poor third world struggling country, rather like a busy thriving state. There are many cars, traffic, much beautiful and modern architecture, building and facilities in good repair, and few signs of poverty.Monday Jan 7, 08
In the am we took a taxi south to Cyberjaya and checked in to our work at
Measat Measat, the Malaysia commercial satellite operator. Cyberjaya is the Silicon Valley of Malaysia but perhaps much nicer. Tropical, lush green and warm. The architecture here is nothing less than stunning. Many corporate buildings with unique appealing design, ornate condominium high-rises, several very artistic mosques, convention center, and a circular lake with our Hotel Shangri La and some other buildings on an island in the middle. Two or three very artistic and striking 
Bridges bridges cross the lake. Two municipalities cover the immediate area, Putrajaya Putrajaya and Cyberjaya. After checking into the hotel we sought some advice about where to have dinner and were directed to a “local” restaurant. Turns out it was really “local.” A Muslim semi outdoor greasy spoon where dinner entrées were about $MR4.50 ($1.50), and though I like very spicy food, this was so hot I could mostly just eat the broth and the meat. The toilet was the type you hear of in India. This was our first encounter with poverty and/or third world culture since arriving in Malaysia – but it was so in spades! The food style was tomyam, some version of Thai that I never did get a clear idea of but is very popular everywhere. As the adventure evolved over the following days I came to the opinion that there are lot’s of “good” sidewalk restaurants where you get dinner for about than $2!Tuesday, completed our satellite reconfiguration task successfully at Measat. Wednesday we performed some final checks, had a debrief and went to dinner with the controller manager Nand at an outdoor Chinese place in the low rent
District district – was very good though.Thursday Jan.10, 08.
This morning Denny (Ertsman) and I checked out of Putrajaya and picked up a car at the KL airport. We headed north, skirting KL proper on the west on first-class freeways. In late afternoon we branched to the east heading up to the Cameron Highlands. The mountainous jungle for a 35 mile climb to about 6000 ft is spectacular. In addition, near the top is a huge Cameron Tea Plantation that stretches out for a mile or so across a deep valley surrounded by terraced hillsides all carpeted with the beautiful tea plants. Chose to stay the night at the top in the Smokehouse in Taman Rata. This old building is in the style of an English pub, originally built and established as pub and hotel in the 30’s by English business men. During the Japanese occupation of World War II it was seized and served as a mess hall for the occupying Japanese officers. They happened to be having a birthday party for the head chef tonight, so we were invited for extra eats and drinks upon returning form dinner. This “second” dinner takes the cost record for the trip – free!
In the morning we proceeded to the mountain top, finding extensive picturesque terrace-farming lining steep mountain sides and filling the tiny valleys between. All of this farming is accessible only on foot and with no power machinery. Having made our way back down the mountain, we cruised into Georgetown, capitol of the state of Penang by mid afternoon. This is on the island of Penang. A young Muslim girl in the tourist information booth told us all we wanted to hear, but most of it turned out to be false. Most notably that we could take our car on a ferry to Langkawi Island departing every half hour from Alor Star. Doubting this we decided to double check on the internet and found that ferry goes once per day, you can’t go on the same boat, and can only pick up the car a day later at Langkawi. Having only one day we canceled visiting Langkawi. We did make a long walking tour of old Penang, visiting many historic building including Fort Cornwallis, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion/Museum, several Chinese Temples and a Christian Cemetery where we sough out the grave of Anna’s husband. Who’s Anna. A young school teacher who lived in Georgetown early in the century. After her husband died, she went to Siam (now Thailand) to teach the children of the King. It is this lady’s life that inspired the play and movie “The King and I,” and more recently “Anna and the King.” Spent the night at the City Bay View, after finding our intended first choice the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion full for several days hence, another conflict with the tourist center information. Probably lucky though as the Bay View was nice and the Cheong Fatt Tze, though having historic significance, looks dreary embedded in surrounding high rises and having small old windows.
Saturday Jan. 12, 08
This morning we visited the Penang State Museum, then got lost trying the find the station to get an inclined train up Penang Hill, a popular view point over Georgetown. Giving that up we went south on the island to the Malaysian WW II Museum, which is simply a tour through a big gun emplacement built by the Brits to guard the Straight of Melacca (modern day fort). This is largely still intact, but was taken and occupied by the Japanese when they were in control of the Pacific. Some activities here during that period were later the subject of war crimes trials and convictions. Later we continued around the island, about 30 – 40 miles to Batu Ferringhi, a beach resort area on the north side, where we had a swim in the 80+°F water and spent the night at the Sands by the Sea, Shangri La. Tonight again we had a great dinner at a food court for almost nothing. We are having great Indian, Chinese, Thai and Malaysian food – very spicy and I am eating so much rice. I’m gaining weight. In this majority Muslim land, beer and liquor are frequently hard to find, and relatively expensive!
Sunday morning after a leisurely breakfast and a swim, back to Georgetown we went to ride the inclined train again. This time we found it, however, when we arrived the train schedule was such that we couldn’t take the ride and get Denny to his airplane on time.
Monday morning, alone, I left Georgetown and Penang Island behind, crossing the bridge to Butterworth and south to Ipoh (e po). Decided to go through town. Big mistake – mixed up and lost at least a couple hours getting out. Then headed east back through and past the Cameron Highlands again. A very good highway cut through the and mountains all the way to Gua Musang. Truck (vegetable and flower) farming extensive in the highlands – apparently all hand labor as no evidence of machinery and the mountain side terraces are too steep anyway. Approaching Gua Musang and the National Park, there were dozens of log trucks – apparently somebody’s cutting the rain forest though this is not visible from the highway. Heavy trucks in Malaysia seem all about identical, Mercedes, no doors, and what appears to be an armored cab. Stayed at the Fully Inn for about $40 and had dinner for about $1. I wasn’t too hungry and the food place I went to didn’t look that great. Food was OK though.
Tuesday am I tore up the parking ticket from my windshield and drove south along the west border of Taman Negara National Park. At Mehpoh (me po), about half way down the west side of the park I found an entrance 7 km east of the main Route 8. Went on a 5 km hike in the jungle/rain forest in search of rhinos, elephants, tigers, and barking deer, all of which are supposed to inhabit the park. Got lost, or at least lost the trail and had to backtrack and take another trail. Saw none of the animals, but I heard the deer – unless there was a ranger walking around with his dog. I sat very still deep in the jungle for half an hour hoping the elephants would come to me, but they didn’t. A Malay later told me I would more likely find a tiger in a palm plantation. Drove a long way south on a two-way highway with lots of slow trucks and people taking daring chances to get around them. Kuala Lapis is the departure point for the south eastern park entrances. My map seems to make it a long way with no roads - local descriptions seem to make it much easier, but I’m not taking time to find out on this trip. Finally arriving at Bentong (or tung, they can’t seem to decide). This is the nearest town to KL where I believe I have some chance of a hotel and I don’t want to try passing KL late in the day or at night. Even though only about 80 km from KL, this place seems more handicapped than Gua Musang. Hotel is a step down, after checking both, and the internet café won’t let me connect my computer and has only Chinese characters on the screen of their’s – can that be? Well, it’s what they said after I complained about not being able to read the screen. Tomorrow Port Dickson.
Wednesday Jan. 16, 08 Typical sidewalk buffet of Indian, Thai, Malay cuisine
Today was supposed to be easy, driving from Bentong to Port Dickson via Seremban. I had it all laid out to skirt KL on the east side E8, E25, E21, E29…..but I never found E25 and instead came down Hwy 1 along the east side right in sight of the Petronas Towers, KL Tower and all. Even this wasn’t so bad until I got to the Putrajaya area trying to make my way to Seremban. Eight times I left the expressways to seek guidance. Each time I got back on I would see a couple Seremban signs, then they would vanish in favor of directions to local towns – and I have no way-points to determine where I am going. Hence, kept getting lost and going in circles. Once I stopped to ask directions from a motorcycle rider. He said, “follow me,” and I did at very high speed – he lead me back in the wrong direction toward KL and escaped through a tool plaza, where I have to pay and he doesn’t. – I think this guy was purposely screwing with me. Everyone else in Malaysia has been very cooperative, and helpful where they could. Around this area (Putrajaya) it’s difficult – when you get off the freeway your lost again. Names are unfamiliar, not like Georgetown or Bakersfield, but …… let’s see, was it Papang or Kapang or was it Kejang or Puchong. I’ll bet the Malaysians have trouble in LA even though our names are distinct! Finally, I got on an expressway headed for Seremban, only to have a construction project scrape me off to local Hwy 1, that’s where I was two hours ago! In hindsight, it would have been straightforward to go to the airport (KLIA) and then a short secondary road (Hwy 5) to Port Dickson – but I was hung up on taking the expressway. In double hindsight, I note by further study of the map the expressways encircle Putrajaya on both sides merging in the south heading toward Senemban, so perhaps I was just unknowingly oscillating in different directions, always headed for the right place – wish I’d brought my Garman nuvi!
At Port Dickson, got a nice room on the beach at Selesa Beach Resort, which promised free Wi-Fi but couldn’t deliver.
Thursday. Spent about 2 3 hours in a real interesting war museum in Port Dickson, then wondered up the 80 km or so to the airport (KLIA). Near the airport I inquired the location of the Concord Inn. The officer said get out of the way, he would take me there. It was a 6 – 10 km and I had to move right along to keep him in sight – obviously I was lost again. Had my last $2 Muslin-Indian dinner with 3 Malays who wondered why I didn’t eat with my fingers, or at least with the spoon. One of them was eating a kind of 1 foot diameter pancake awkwardly with one hand – the other hand noticeably almost in his pocket. A drink for them is a glass of boiled water. Sometimes I brought a beer form somewhere else, but the proprietor would ask me to keep it discretely out of sight.
Food is a big deal here, everyone either preparing of eating – cooking always done by the street in open view, not in the back kitchen as in US. Using spices and cooking the SE Asians have mastered the art of making delicious food with a minimum of sanitation and preservation, from the most common of ingredients – dahl (lentels), rice, mutton (no lamb), chicken, junk fish (which I haven’t learned to like) and a variety of vegetables. There were perhaps 100 dozen (I lost track trying to count) eggs sitting in the tropical heat on the sidewalk by my dinner table tonight. Food stalls and little make-shift restaurants abound everywhere. Seafood means small fish with skin, heads, tails and lots of fins.
Friday morning began the journey from KL to LA. The long flights were routine and Hong Kong to LA, surprising to me, was 3 hours shorter than the LA outbound flight two weeks ago due to prevailing winds. Some last minute excitement added when as we were within maybe 50 ft of touch-down in LA our 747 suddenly went into a steep climb and aborted the landing. We soon learned that the pilot saw other traffic on the runway and had pulled up to avoid it. The second go around went smoothly.
Weather: Despite the fact that I am here in the rainy season, in the central and east I have had only a few brief hard showers. In the west, rains occur all year but are brief hard showers over a limited area – hence, Measat has two satellite stations about 50 km apart and are assured with high probability of never having rain fade over both.
Agriculture: There is an abundance of agriculture despite the lack of any flat land. However, I never can identify anything growing that I eat, except the huge palm oil plantations. Palm oil is so important here that last week the government flooded the market with 72,000 gallons to prevent hording.. There is no livestock evident and no evidence of mechanization or farm implements. Can this all be done with hand labor?
Highway construction jobs do seem to be done with relatively modern heavy machinery, but in contrast it appears that all the neatly trimmed roadsides are done by battalions of weed whackers. And highways are often swept by hand with bamboo brooms.
Muslim Women: Been seeing lots of women with berkas and long robes, dresses, but none that I cared to see without them. They all look the same and are over-weight. Nobody’s seems happy – especially the women, they all seem to be cooking or eating. However, the men are generally friendly and helpful when you talk with them. Almost everybody speaks English to some degree.
Language: Some words I wish I knew the meaning of – someone got very wealthy selling signs with em on Kurangkan Luja Simpang Ke, Awas
